Well, is a dog bed something you even need to train a lab to use? I've been living with labs for over a decade, and I've watched Duke, my 75-pound black lab, treat a $150 bed like a personal chew toy for three weeks before I threw it out.
Related: Labrador Dog Bed Size Chart
I've tested over forty beds in my shop, and I've cut open enough of them to know what cheap foam looks like.
Here's the truth: you don't train a lab to use a bed. You train the bed to survive the lab. And then you make it the best spot in the house.
A dog bed is a foreign object. It's a giant pillow that doesn't smell like you, doesn't move like a lap, and doesn't taste like a bone. Your lab doesn't know what it's for. So you have to teach them, and the teaching is less about commands and more about management.
I've got a system that's worked for Duke, for Penny, and for every client dog I've trained over the years.
And it involves a lot of treats, a lot of patience, and the right bed.
Here's the short list of beds I've actually lived with, and which ones make this training easy or nearly impossible.
KSIIA Washable Dog Bed
Survived Duke's chewing for months. Dense foam supports Penny's hips.
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PetFusion Ultimate Dog Bed, Orthopedic Memory Foam, Waterproof Cover Liner
Best for senior dogs. Dense foam and raised bolsters. Waterproof liner works.
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How I Tested
I don't do spec-sheet reviews. I put a bed in my shop, let Duke and Penny live on it for months, and I watch. I measure foam density with a notebook and a tape measure. I wash the covers until the zippers die, which I've seen happen fourteen times.
I watch Duke try to dismantle a "tough" bed for the fourth time, and I watch Penny decide whether a bed is worth lying on or whether she'd rather have the cold floor.
That's the test.
The Training Method That Actually Works
Before we talk products, here's the method. It's not complicated, but it requires consistency.
Step one: Make the bed the best place in the room. Put it somewhere your lab already likes to sleep. If that's the corner of the living room, put it there. Drop high-value treats on it throughout the day. Let them discover it on their own. Don't force them onto it.
Step two: Use the "place" command. This is basic obedience. Point at the bed, say "place," and when they step on it, mark it with a "yes" or a click and give them a treat. Repeat this until they'll run to the bed on command. Duke learned this in about a week. Penny, at eleven with hip dysplasia, took a bit longer because getting up was hard for her.
Step three: Make it a positive resting spot. Give them a chew toy or a frozen Kong on the bed. They'll start associating the bed with good things. Never use the bed for punishment. If they're in trouble, they don't go to the bed. That's a hard rule.
Step four: Crate training helps. If your lab is crate trained, they already know how to settle in a confined space. A bed in a crate is a natural extension. The MidWest mat works well here because it holds its shape.
Step five: Be patient with puppies. A puppy under three years old is a chew toy with a price tag. Don't spend $200 on a bed for a teething lab. Buy something cheap, let them destroy it, and get the good bed when they're three. Every single time.
The K9 Ballistics Tough Bed
This is the bed I recommend when someone asks "what do I get for a lab that chews?" with a caveat. The version I own has been in my shop for four months now, and the ballistic fabric has held up to Duke's digging and chewing in a way that astonished me. Three weeks in, it still looked new. That's astonishing for a bed in my house.
But I've read the 1-star reviews from people whose dogs went through it in two weeks. One guy, writing in March 2025, said his dog opened a hole "in a couple of weeks." Those people aren't liars. Their dogs are just more determined than mine. A bed that survives a moderate chewer is a good bed. A bed that survives a determined chewer doesn't exist.
The foam is dense enough to support Penny's joints, which is a bonus for a senior dog. And the covers, both outer and inner, wash well. I've washed them multiple times and the zippers haven't died yet, which puts it ahead of most beds I've tested.
Two things annoy me. The cover is a two-person job to get on, and there are no handles. At this price, handles aren't optional. And the outer cover is a little noisy when the dogs move around. Not a dealbreaker, but you should know.
Choose this bed if your lab is a moderate chewer and you're tired of replacing beds every month. Choose something else if your dog is a determined chewer, because this won't stop them.
The PetFusion Ultimate Dog Bed
This is the bed for senior dogs. Penny's slept on it for months now, and it's the one she chooses over the K9 Ballistics, which is saying something. The foam is dense, not the flaky cheap stuff you find at big box stores, and it gives her enough footing to get up without struggling.
The raised bolsters on two sides are a nice touch. Dogs like resting against them, and it gives them options for how they lay.
The waterproofing works. I've had dogs soil it and the foam stayed clean. The cover system means there are multiple layers before you reach the foam. That's smart engineering. The customer service is the real standout. Multiple reviewers, and I've had the same experience, report that when something went wrong, the company shipped a replacement immediately. That's worth something.
But it's not for chewers. One reviewer gave it 1 star because their Great Dane chewed through it. That's not a contradiction. It's a different use case. If your dog is a chewer, this isn't your bed. If your dog is older, or has joint issues, this is the best option I've found.
Choose the PetFusion if your top priority is joint support and waterproofing. Choose the K9 Ballistics if your top priority is surviving a chewer.
The MidWest Microfiber Crate Mat
This is a good bed for the right situation. Crates, carriers, travel. It's soft, machine washable, and holds its shape in a crate, which is more than I can say for most beds. I've had one in my shop for a year, and it's held up well. It's not a bed I'd put in the living room, but for a crate, it's solid.
The main complaint I've seen is that it slips on hard surfaces. One reviewer's dog ripped it with his nails, which tells you the fabric isn't tough. Add non-slip pads underneath, and it's a better product. It's not chew-proof, and it's not even chew-resistant. If you have a chewer, this isn't your bed. If you have a dog who just sleeps in a crate, this is a solid, affordable choice.
The Puppy Exception
If your lab is under three years old, you're buying a chew toy with a price tag. I've said it before, and I'll say it again. Duke went through a bed a month before I found the K9 Ballistics. That's almost $1,000 worth of beds in a single year. Don't make that mistake. Get a cheap bed, let them destroy it, and get the good one when they're older.
The Bottom Line
You train a lab to use a bed by making the bed the best place in the room, using the "place" command, and being patient. The bed itself matters, but not as much as the training. For a chewer, get the K9 Ballistics and accept its flaws.
For a senior dog, get the PetFusion and don't worry about chewing. For a crate, get the MidWest mat and add non-slip pads.
That's the whole decision. I've lived with all three, and I'd buy them again.